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Jamaica Delight - My Island Escape
By Sonya Jenkins

      From the time I first set foot on an island there was a certain spiritual awakening that seemed to revitalize my body, my soul, my mind. The balmy climate, beautiful turquoise ocean and even the fresh island scent tantalized my senses in ways I never imagined. After attending a festival in Jamaica in 1996, I became an “Island Girl” at heart. I even envisioned that I’d someday live on an island. Not surprisingly, when we visualize or claim something enough times, it usually appears. A few years after my first visit to Jamaica, fate stepped in - just when I needed a change - and before I knew it, I was frequenting the beautiful island just for mere pleasure. For almost two years, I became a Jamerican . . . the girl from America who delighted in breathing Jamaican air, eating Jamaican cuisine, exploring the Jamaican culture, listening to reggae sounds, and embracing the peace and tranquility of the ocean and the lush, green mountains. When I was happy, I felt more at peace walking through the sand and hearing the sound of waves hitting the shore. When I was sad, I escaped gloom by going to the ocean (which was often only a few feet away) knowing that I would get the healing balm I needed.

      Montego Bay, Ocho Rios, and Negril are my favorite resort cities (and where vacationers spend most of their time), but I mostly stayed in Montego Bay or Negril when I visited the Island. After being awakened by the crows of roosters each morning, I often ate salt-fish or brown stew chicken, ackee (a tropical fruit), dumpling, plantains, boiled green bananas, red peas and rice, and festival (a unique bread that tasted a lot like a Dunkin Donut to me). I’d drink fruit juices and smoothies, and when I’d need that carbonated boost, cola champagne - a non-alcoholic beverage that tasted a lot like red cream soda – was my favorite thirst quencher. Jamaican cuisine was definitely spicier than my taste buds were used to, but I couldn’t resist a little jerk chicken from time to time (a traditional Jamaican dish that can be found at almost every corner). When I wanted to dine a little finer I’d indulge in scrumptious seafood at Margaritte’s by the Sea, or The Native restaurant, where I tried curry goat for the first time. On special nights when the budget didn’t allow fine dining, I’d dine at the Pelican restaurant, where I’d often order curry chicken, or I’d go to the Pork Pit or Scotchies, where jerk chicken was oh-so good. Since looking good in my swimsuit was more important to me than binging on Jamaican food, I often didn’t consume much after 7pm and I exercised by walking miles on the beach.

      Partying in Montego Bay during the evening hours was fun and festive.  Jimmy Buffet’s Margaritteville in Montego Bay (MoBay) & Negril and Coral Cliff Gaming Lounge (on MoBay’s hip strip) were my favorite nightspots. Whether I wanted to get my party on during the week or on the weekend, it was good to know that I could always bob my head to the live band at Coral Cliff or dance to the rhythmic beat at Margaritteville on any given day. One of my favorite Jamaican memories was when I celebrated my birthday in October of 2003 with about 25 personal friends and family from the States who packed their bags to join me on short notice. As Jamaicans would say, “Everything is Iiree, Mon.” Everything was all good.

      When it came to beaches in Montego Bay, I couldn’t get enough of the endless stretch of white beaches surrounded by mountains and tropical greenery. I most liked Doctor’s Cave Beach (right in the heart of MoBay), but I often relaxed and renewed my inner spirit at the Rose Hall Resort and Country Club, where I attended the International Jamerican Film & Music Festival, or the Half Moon Montego Bay, one of my favorite ritzy resorts to stay at in Jamaica.

      There is nothing more romantic than seeing a beautiful sunset permeating over the ocean and one of the best places to embrace the sunset is in Negril, which was only about an hour drive from MoBay. While Negril offers all the fun and excitement as MoBay, I considered it to be the quieter, more romantic side of the island. When visiting Negril, I’d often stay at The Negril Treehouse, a rustic, yet quaint hotel, where I’d get up early and take a stroll on the beach and eat breakfast at the restaurant overlooking the ocean. I’d chat with the owner of The Negril Treehouse (a native Pennsylvanian) who had made Jamaica her home. She always loved to interact with guests and tell them about the different Negril festivities. Negril is most known for Rick’s Café, where daring locals dive more than 50 feet into the blue sea. Even tourists jump from the highest cliff to get their adrenaline flowing, which is sometimes very scary to watch. There were even some natives who jumped more than 100 feet (from trees).

      On the opposite end of Negril is the town of Ocho Rios, where I climbed Dunn’s River Falls a couple of times after hearing that the falls made one feel 10 years younger. I wasn’t so sure about that when my entire body ached the next day. But the beauty of the falls and the energy I felt while climbing the big rocks gave me a sense of freedom and adventure. While Ocho Rios, known as “Ochi” by natives, is best known for the cascading falls, I also enjoyed shopping for duty-free jewelry and watching cruise ships dock. Not too far from Ocho Rios is Runaway Bay, which I felt was named appropriately. After attending a wedding there, the unique aura of the resort town made me want to run away with someone special.

      Although there are many towns and hideaways in Jamaica that offer a myriad of  beautiful hillsides, spectacular beaches, and adventures, I was most amazed when I visited the small towns like Cambridge, Elizabeth and Lucia - country towns with wild tropical terrains and dirt roads. Goats and roosters would walk the roads like they owned it.

      While resort living is my kind of living, on a couple of occasions I ventured into Kingston (the capital of Jamaica). When I got to Kingston, I was quite surprised to discover skyscrapers, modern life and a more business-like atmosphere compared to the laid-back resort way of life in MoBay, Ocho Rios, and Negril. While in Kingston, I got a chance to visit the Embassy of the United States of America, where many Jamaicans apply and interview for nonimmigrant visas to come to the U.S. It was interesting to learn that many Jamaicans who apply for visas get denied because they don’t have enough social or economic ties to their place of residence. While Americans can freely travel to Jamaica and most other countries with a passport, Jamaicans have to prove their intentions for traveling outside of their country and provide support documents. They also have to pay a hefty application fee. Many leave the Embassy quite discouraged because their visa is denied, but some are hopeful about the possibility that they might get a visa next year, since the rejection (form) letter asks them to wait a year before applying again. The ones who get their visas on the spot rarely refuse the opportunity to leave their country, even if only for a temporary visit.

      One of my most rewarding experiences was helping fight illiteracy in Jamaica through the Read Across Jamaica Literacy Project. As a Literacy Ambassador I traveled to different parishes in Jamaica donating books & school supplies and encouraging young students.

        Since Jamaicans are some of the friendliest people I’ve met, it wasn’t hard to make friends and acquaintances. I even found myself pretending to be a Jamaican many times - only for someone to discover my non-Jamaican accent or observe the way I sat in awe of the ocean and ask, “You’re not from here, are you?” While I didn’t look much different from a Jamaican, I guess the natives knew that my spirit wasn’t quite as free. “No problem, Mon,” the most popular phrase I’d hear after, “Yeah, Mon,” was not just any phrase for the Jamaican, but it was their way of life. As with many other Islanders, Jamaicans rarely let stress get the best of them and had a “Don’t worry, be happy” attitude. But while I didn’t mind the reserved nature of most Jamaicans, I did mind the way the majority of them drove. Since Jamaicans are mostly a laid back, easy-going people, I couldn’t understand why they didn’t exude the same pace on the two-lane road. The speed limit was rarely kept, and drivers would sometimes dangerously pass each other. I found myself constantly praying that I would get to my destination safely.

     I have yet to buy a beautiful beach home in Jamaica or any other tropical island (which is still my dream), but sometimes it takes getting away to an Island like Jamaica to discover that real living is about living in the moment . . .  not stressing about the future. 
Negril Jamaica
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